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General info and piste ratings for Courchevel
If Courchevel were no longer linked to the other
two valleys it would probably still claim to be one of the world's
Top Three ski-resorts. It is the prettiest valley with superb views
of Mont Blanc and Belleville (the La Plagne mountain). Most of the
skiing is in a gigantic north facing bowl that preserves snow on
the steepest slopes, but there are extensive pistes facing all directions
of the compass. It has the most varied range of skiing in the Trois
Vallées with superb opportunities for every skier from total
beginner to expert. Courchevel 1850 is the perfect resort for a
mixed ability party.
The timid ones who want to limit their skiing to
Courchevel's Valley make do with a mere 68 lifts and over 100 miles
of pistes. Easy beginner runs and pistes like those around the Jardin
Alpin lifts, like other Courchevel pistes, offer impeccable grooming.
Intermediates cruise wide slopes also popular with boarders under
the "bigger-than-a-bus" Courchevel 1850 gondola. Experts
nosedive into the Ugly Sisters' couloirs off the top of Saulire
Peak.
Most slopes face north, so they offer minimal icing easily handled
by exceptional grooming and the crew's-information on the night's
grooming is available at a kiosk in Courchevel 1850. North slopes
do get cold when shaded, but there are so many alternatives that
it's easy to follow the sun around to perfect snow conditions. As
you look up the valley, the best couloirs and steep runs are on
the right towards Méribel, and the best powder is towards
the glaciers to the left.
About 25 percent of the pistes are covered with snow cannons, but
seasonal snowfall averages just under 20 feet, and the pistes high
above Courchevel 1850 get and hold early snow. So quality skiing
usually runs from the resort's December opening until even after
the end-of-April closing without much cannon usage.
Resorts open as snow levels move down the hill, with Courchevel
1850 having the most extended season.
The only drawback to all this snow is, of course, avalanche closures
during and after big storms that can shut down some of the steeper,
more advanced pistes and eliminate off-piste skiing for a day or
two until things settle down. Advanced skiers will therefore appreciate
the 17 new Gazex guns along Saulire, Vizelle and Dou des Lanches,
aimed to shoot down cornices and set off avalanches to open these
areas more quickly after heavy snowstorms.
Low clouds can sometimes limit visibility at altitude. Fortunately,
the lovely intermediate "boulevards" rarely close, and
the tree skiing towards Méribel or, with the aid of the new
snow cannons, the Follieres run down into La Tania offer decent
alternatives when wind and weather close the top. Then too, Le Praz
cross-country can take up any slack.
Of course, you can always "go over the hill." The entire
Les Trois Vallées totals 40,000 acres. That's about 10 times
larger than Vail, the largest ski resort in the U.S. Kick in 200
lifts headlined by 40 gondolas and serving 400 miles of pistes.
Intermediates and experts can access all this with a Trois Vallées
area pass that's only about 30 percent more than the Courchevel
Valley pass. Off-piste skiing adds probably 250,000 acres or more.
However, in April, it's wise to check snow coverage over in the
Méribel Valley before buying a Three Valleys pass, as Méribel
loses its snow first and can bar easy access to the highest snow
at Val Thorens in the next valley west, Belleville.
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Beginners past basic wedge turns do better on
the big open "boulevards," which define green beginner
and easy blue intermediate runs at Courchevel. There are several
special beginner downhill pistes, and a children's beginner area.
A lighted night skiing piste offers 125 meters (410 feet) of vertical,
as well. Of Courchevel's 12 free beginner's surface lifts, seven
are found at 1850.
Overall 30 percent of the pistes suit beginners, and each of the
villages has beginner's pistes. However, early in the season before
snow builds, the beginner's area right in Courchevel 1850 is the
choice, as its snow cannon coverage means that beginners can ski
early.
Beginners who are on the verge of breaking through into the blue
runs probably do best here with a ski pass. Be aware that some of
the top end blue runs might be reds anywhere else.
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The blue trails and the easiest red trails in
Courchevel offer the best intermediate skiing in the world. Add
in the variety in les Trois Valllées, and such is certainly
the case. The major problem is selection. There seem to be too many
trails to pick. A good warm up starts up on the top of Roc Merlet
out of 1850 that can run all the way down to 1650 via the Pyramide
and Indiens pistes.
Cruising trails also popular with boarders include Verdons, Saulire,
and Loze. They're nice for warming up in the morning or to shake
down lunch enjoyed on a sunny terrace. Grandes Bosses is a killer
blue choice out of 1650, too. Most feel intermediate runs make up
about 40 percent of the runs at Courchevel, but the top end of the
reds can be tough if they ice. So always check on the night's grooming
and conditions.
Showoffs delight in the wide boulevard slopes under the immense
Courchevel cable car before dodging back to 1850 through the powder
under the trees. If it snows hard and slopes close the pistes up
top, glide down to La Tania on Follières or the tree runs
towards Méribel.
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Courchevel serves up more red advanced and black
expert pistes than any skilled, fit skier can manage in a week.
Pistes range from reasonable high intermediate pistes up to suicidal.
It's probably wise for skiers to warm up with some of the high red
mogul runs, or start with the powder runs through the trees towards
Méribel to reduce the chance of altitude sickness before
attempting the more demanding blacks.
A good spot to test black skills is Les Suisses. After that, the
most expert head up on the gondola to three couloirs some call the
Ugly Sisters on Saulire. From the valley these look like white fingers
reaching up into the rocky ridge. Smart skiers traverse the narrow
path to the couloir after checking snow conditions on the board
at the entrance, and after a good look at things from the gondola.
Start with Grande, the widest, easiest couloir that's sometimes
rather chopped up at the top by snow boarders, but it gets easier
as you go. Note: you can avoid the narrower upper arm that's steepest.
Sous Pylons might be even easier for those who can manage the narrow
entry off the cornice. Skiers who feel comfortable on these two
couloirs can move to tougher routes, others should ski elsewhere.
For example, try Téléphérique that hosts the
Free Ride Classic extreme competitions. Survive that and wiggle
down the tough Emile Allais couloir that runs steep, narrow, and
long, but has less tracks and better snow than the others. Even
worse is Couloir Tremplin that some claim should be called "Oh,
no" or perhaps, "Expletive deleted." It's tricky
because you can hit it right from the cable car after a big snow
and it's not bad, but rocks pop up quickly and seem planted in the
most awkward spots. It's not wise to discover this midway through
your run.
Strong skiers make for the long runs and off piste slopes on Mont
Vallon (Meribel) and La Masse (Les Menuires), and spectacular glacier
skiing at Val Thorens.
If you stay down at Le Praz, check out Jean Blanc's black 1,000
feet of vertical once used for downhill competitions. It's a good
alternative in bad weather or bad visibility, and offers a view
of the "ski jump rafting" on the outruns of the old Olympic
Ski Jumps.
Aiguille de Fruit and its monster Creux Bowl can offer incredible
skiing via the Chanrossa chair if the snow is good, the area is
open, and the climb back out to the Creux Chair isn't too much.
This is the spot at Courchevel to hit tricky bumps, exposed traverses,
and untracked snow, but always check with the pisteurs hut at the
top of the lift for snow conditions. Some areas are impossible with
snow and dangerous in avalanche conditions.
Off-piste expert action in the Creux Bowl starts at the top of Creux
Noirs chair and slogs along the ridge to Point Emilienne before
newcomers should take a look. Anyone uncertain about things should
head back, as an alternative to the 1,300-foot dive down Col du
Fruit, on what many consider the best snow in Courchevel.
Black runs here can bite. Add ice and they're far from nice.
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Competition
& Racing Level
Jean Blanc's black 1,000-foot vertical once used
for downhill competitions qualifies as a black racing challenge.
Check out Emile Allais Racing Course at 1850. Several ski schools
flag GSL, GS, and Downhill courses and there's a regular series
of ski competitions at the local, regional, and international level.
Three slalom courses complete the racing trail package and, of course,
there are up to a dozen more in the other two of the Trois Vallées.
Snow
boarding
The area ranks only a bit behind Val d'Isère
or Chamonix as a boarder's best for intermediates and up who are
interested in cruising and in diving down extreme couloirs or on
off-piste days. The big roller runs under the Courchevel Gondola
up to Saulire offer wonderful gliding and sliding, as do Verdons,
Saulire, and Col de la Loze.
Les Suisses suits experts who might, on a good day, board the three
Ugly Sisters, and the boulevards under the gondola let boarders
boogie all the way down to La Praz. There's some spectacular boarding
in the trees towards the Altiport that many overlook, as well.
On the east side of the valley some spectacular powder below Roc
Meriet leads to le Pyramide and, via le Indiens piste, all the way
to 1650. The slopes down to Les Creux leave boarders "holed
out," but the lift up to La Vizelle lets boarders connect to
the boulevards with the choice of ending up either in 1550 or Le
Praz.
Those who prefer snow parks find Parc Plantery's baby and half-pipes,
tables, hips, and much else of interest, but there's more fun to
be had up on the edges of Verdons on the Zones Thermatiques du Biolley
et des Verdons or on off-piste runs with guides from the mountain
schools. Some lovely off-piste boarding lurks just off the pistes
towards Tania too, and with caution and a partner, this can be managed
by skilled boarders willing to take the risk of going without a
guide.
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